Thursday, May 18, 2017

Capital City

Mel and I walked around the bus terminal to stretch our legs after an eight hour ride from Chiang Mai to Bangkok. We stood in a long line waiting for a taxi to take us to our hostel to drop off our bags and begin our day (we arrived in Bangkok at 6 am - true to my style of starting the day early when travelling). 

After hearing mixed reviews of Bangkok we didn't know what to expect our three days there to be like. However, somehow the stars aligned and we seemed to time and plan everything perfectly - it was actually quite odd how well the pieces our trip fit together.

It started with us weaving through the streets to reach our first destination - the Grand Palace and Temple of the Emerald Buddha. After being warmly greeted by the security at the palace, we entered into the complex. An overwhelming feeling of amazement and respect hit us both. We both kept remarking, "I can't believe we're here." The wats were ornately decorated with vividly coloured mosaic pieces, a style I have not really seen in Chiang Mai.

Prasat Phra Dhepbidorn (Royal Pantheon)


Mel and I at the Temple of the Emerald Buddha
The Grand Palace


As part of our ticket to tour the wats and grounds of the Grand Palace, were tickets to the Queen Sirikit Museum of Textiles, where we admired the detailed traditional khon dance costumes and learning about the art form Her Majesty has worked to revitalise and conserve. We then made our way to Wat Pho, home of the reclining Buddha, who took up the whole hall.

The Reclining Buddha

Chedis at Wat Pho
The rest of the day was spent manoeuvring through Chinatown and Little India, an excursion that lead to us getting lost multiple times, steamed buns, me buying a cute pillow in the shape of a teddy bear which I then christened Sleepy Bear (super creative I know), and me devouring multiple types of Indian sweets that were either dosed in saffron flavoured syrup, made of coconut, or a type of milk fudge.

The next day we travelled to a floating market in the morning, where vendors prepared dishes in their boats. We decided to do a sample style breakfast which included dried mango (think mango fruit leather), mini coconut pancakes, deep-fried banana, khanom buang (small crisp crepes with meringue and shredded sweetened egg yolk sprinkled on top), and durian. Yep, you read that right, I finally tried durian. What was my reaction to this renowned fruit, known for it's strong smell that is reminiscent of trash? Well, after doing my best not to smell it before eating it, a piece of advice I received from a durian lover, I tried a small piece and let's just say that it is an acquired taste that I unfortunately don't have. Durian has a cream texture and is described as mostly sweet when good quality, and is many people's favourite fruit, but seems to have a harder sell when it comes to foreigners.

Next on the agenda was JJ Market, an outdoor weekend market spanning 27 acres, with multiple sections such as art, pets, clothes, and food. It was interesting to see the diverse offerings of the market, from high-end art to sugar gliders.

Then we were off to the Museum of Contemporary Art (MOCA). Here the emphasis of how strong Buddhism has on the present day culture was emphasised, with the majority of the art involving Buddha, gods, and other characters from myths.

Beautiful sculptures at MOCA

We ended the night with watching a Muay Thai at Rajadamnern Stadium. We watched intently as fighters jabbed, kneed, and kicked their opponents, sometimes resulting in a throw down. For a while we were mixed in the crowd of energetic older Thai men placing bets, however we were instructed to move to the side where the rest of the other foreigners resided. During the fighting a small band played with the music getting faster as the fighting became more intense. Most of the fighters representing local gyms were young, with almost half of the 18 of them under the age of 15. However, their power and skills had us reviewing our own workout routines (or for me, my lack of).

สู้ๆ (Pronounced "Su su!" - means fighting in Thai and used as words of encouragement)

On third day in the capital was spent in the heart of the city, exploring the themed mall Terminal 21 (most museums are closed on Mondays in Bangkok) which consisted of 6 floors and structures such as the Golden Gate Bridge on the San Francisco themed floor and statues and fountains for the Rome themed floor. Taking a break from the mall, we walked around Bangkok's largest park, Lumpini Park that had gorgeously trees and bushes, with multiple ponds that had benches bordering them. Needing the A/C once again (it is currently hot season in Thailand which means most days get up to the mid-90's or higher), we headed back to Terminal 21 via the MRT to catch a showing of Guardians of the Galaxy Vol. 2.

The rest of the night consisted of a quick dinner and rushing to make our bus back to Chiang Mai (we made it with less than 5 minutes to spare). Thinking over the past three days I was thankful for a wonderful jammed packed trip with an awesome travelling partner and friend <3


Wednesday, May 17, 2017

Spring Break: Solo in Vietnam

While travelling with friends creates great times and memories, solo travelling has a self-discovery quality that is difficult to replicate. For fours days, I took on Cat Ba, Vietnam by myself and within that short period of time I learned a lot. Along with lessons on booking tours and bus tickets, came lessons on self-confidence, the kindness of strangers, and the biggest lesson of all - that I know nothing. 

The last lesson may seem like an over-dramatic statement, but in the grand scheme of what this world holds, it is pretty accurate. I also don't mean it in a negative way. My eyes were opened to the diversity that exists to learn about and explore, and the wonders that come with it. 

Cat Ba Island and its many small islands is mainly a touristic fishing town. My first day of my travels was spent on a bus, then boat, then another bus. Figuring out what main station to catch my bus proved to be my first challenge, and resulted in my first motorbike ride (the station was 20 minutes from the hostel we were staying at and the gentleman at the front desk called me a bike taxi). I felt oddly comfortable zigzagging through the hectic Hanoi traffic, seeing parts of the city fly by. 

Docked Fishing Boats
After catching my bus-boat combo and arriving in Cat Ba, I checked into a hostel and sat down at a nearby restaurant to have my first ever bowl of pho. The broth was delicious, having been seasoned with cinnamon and star anise among other spices. 

Vegetarian Pho

The next day was when my adventures really began. I had booked a two day tour with Asia Outdoors, and scheduled on this day was rock climbing. I had climbed two times previous to this trip, including the climbing I did at Krabi, which to my frustration had not gone well (I wasn't able to make it to the top with any of my attempts). Warning my two instructors that I was an absolute beginner, I started with the second option along the limestone cliff, which looked like the harder of the two. Haven been given the tips to mostly use my legs and that the wider my stance, the more stable I would be, I set upon my ascend. With the help of hand hold and foot positions to my amazement I made it up to the top, with a couple of slips, taking time to look over my shoulder to admire the view of bright blue water and vegetated cliffs behind me. I would then complete the next two climbs, with the last one taking many attempts. The exhilaration of scaling these gorgeous rock formations and the resulting sense of concentration and staying in the moment was nothing like I have ever felt. Hopefully I will be able to continue this new found love of climbing back in the States.


After becoming hot and sweaty I dipped into the water. Treading water and occasionally floating I looked around and took in the surrounding cliffs and spotted a bird nest. I smile just thinking of how perfect that afternoon was. 

The area I was climbing in 

Enjoying a boat ride
That night I stayed in a resort with my own hut in a nearby village, waking up earlier the next morning for a full day of kayaking through lagoons and around the sky-reaching cliffs. My favourite was when we paddled under a naturally formed archway into a hidden lagoon where it felt like an undiscovered part of the world. 

My fourth day was a half-day since I had to catch the bus back to Hanoi at 1:00 pm. I decided to knock off one thing from my top-things-to-do-while-abroad list and trek through a national park. The round trip of the hike took me less than two hours and resulted in one of the most beautiful views and spotting all different kinds of butterflies and bright red land crabs scurrying along the rocks. 


Cat Ba National Park

On the five hour trip back to Hanoi, I reflected on the time travelling alone. I thought back on the multiple people who had given me directions even with the language barrier, the realisation that I want to take time to become educated on a range of topics (from current politics, to the modern history of Cambodia, to more about plant identification, and more), and wanting to push myself to become less shy. I have a lot of people (mostly complete strangers) to thank for a great trip, so I feel like I can't take credit for the adventure I had. But at the same time I feel pride in stepping outside of my comfort zone and accomplishing something I doubted I could do. 

Sunday, May 14, 2017

Spring Break: Unforgettable Day

Having just come back from Spring Break almost a week ago now, I've had a little bit of time to process what an awe inspiring journey it was. From Thai islands to Cambodia to Northern Vietnam, I had the great fortune to get glimpses of paradise and of rich cultures.

One day for me, however, truly stands out.

Journal entry 13/4/2560 (day/month/Buddhist year):

"Today was an amazing day. Like I'm not talking a "found-a-quarter-in-your-back-pocket" or "had-a-slice-of-chocolate-cake-after-dinner" sort of amazing days. I'm talking about those rare beautiful days where life feels magical - a "you-can't-keep-a-smile-off-of-your-face" sort of day."

So what is the location that had me quickly scribbling in my journal, unable to contain an overflow of excitement? Siem Reap, Cambodia home of Angkor Wat, delicious curries, welcoming individuals, and the Khmer New Year.

The day started off with a 4 a.m. alarm sounding off. I lay in bed an extra 5 minutes warding off deep sleep and fighting exhaustion having gotten to our hostel a little before midnight. I managed to drag myself out of bed, get dressed, and shove a granola bar into my mouth. I went downstairs to the lobby, the location where the three of us doing the tuk-tuk (a form of motorbike taxi) tour of Angkor Wat, one of the top ten wonders of the world, was meeting. After buying our tickets we raced to the temple complex to get there to witness the sunrise, which turned out to be mediocre, but the temple itself was extraordinary. The impressiveness of Angkor Wat lies in the carving of the pillars and the vast size (Angkor Wat is the world's largest religious site). The temple had been designed as a Hindu place of worship and then had transitioned into a Buddhist temple. From the top you could see the whole layout.

Angkor Wat at Sunrise

If I thought the architecture of Angkor Wat was stunning, I was in for a surprise to find that the smaller temples were to me even more spectacular. Since my writing cannot do these ancient monuments justice, please check out the pictures below.

Bakong

Baksei Chamkrong

Tomb Raider Temple

Having returned to the hostel after the tour, I indulged in a quick nap, to be awaken by the sound of bells and singing. Peering out my window, I saw a group of Cambodians in striking costumes going door-to-door performing a type of dance, involving a deer and a hunter. I would later learn that this form of dance is called a trot dance and has been performed to start off the Khmer New Year for over 1000 years! Awake and now ready to explore, I stretched my legs by wondering through the small but bustling downtown area of Siem Reap, stopping at a few touristy shops and a Made in Cambodia Market, where I purchased pepper tea and a lotus bud shaped bronze ring. Later that night the group of nine of us who were all traveling together had dinner at a restaurant called Khmer Kitchen, where I had the best coconut based curry with tofu and pumpkin that I have ever placed in my mouth. Ending the night was the start of the New Year celebration, also known as Songkran and celebrated in Thailand, which involved a street wide water gun fight and dance party, with people smearing baby powder on our faces wishing us a "Happy New Year!" I hadn't had that much fun at a celebration for a really long time.

Aftermath of Songkran

So that, in short, is one of my most unforgettable days I've had studying abroad. From gorgeous ancient temples, to watching a traditional dance, to shopping at a craft market, to eating the most scrumptious meal I've had in Asia, to an outstanding party, how could I have gone wrong? My love for this day and experience has peaked my interest in learning more about this captivating country's culture and history, a place that had previously remained under my radar. Just goes to show you that you never fully know what to expect when travelling and what will end up being your favourite memories.

Tuesday, April 4, 2017

Plant Love

In Thailand I am experiencing a lot of firsts (as one would imagine when having only lived in New Hampshire up until this point). First time tasting foi tong (Thai egg yolk dessert). First time bamboo rafting. First time trying to learn how to speak a new language (I'm not counting the occasional Spanish class in Junior High). First time petting an elephant. But a more ordinary first time is first time living in a larger city. It's amazing that I am living in a place where there are constantly new places to explore - it's hard to get bored here. For instance, today my class got moved so I went to the Lanna Folklife Museum, had lunch at a Northern Thai restaurant (different cuisine that you find at Thai restaurants in the U.S. - in general a lot more chili paste, sticky rice, and sausages), and then checked out two art exhibits (more about Thai art later). 

City life can be overwhelming at times. In the beginning I had a hard time finding places that lacked the hustle and bustle of people, mopeds, and red trucks where I could rest relax. Fortunately, I live next to a in a mountain (Doi Suthep), however sometimes I still miss plants when I don't find the time to go hiking (plus, those 100 degree days make hikes a little less appealing). 

I miss studying plants, working with plant samples as part of my job, miss going into greenhouses, strolling through gardens, etc. So I have made it a mission to spend more time enjoying nature and seeking out greenery. These past couple of weekends I visited The Queen Sirikit Botanic Garden and Pun Pun and Punna Farms. The amount of bliss I felt ogling at water lilies, orchids, cacti, ferns, rice fields, etc. is indescribable. (What can I say? Plants and wildlife make me happy.) The beauty of being in a new place is realising what you can live with out, and what in your life is meaningful and gives you joy. For me it just happens to be plants, art, and chocolate (if we're not talking about my amazing friends and family of course - love and miss you guys ❤)

Queen Sirikit Botanic Garden:

Enjoying the view from the canopy walk - "Oh look! there's a bird"
So gorgeous!
Can't get enough 
Ok, yeah I'm obsessed with water lilies but look how BIG this one is!!
"Please don't eat me!"
Elegant orchids 
Felt like a desert too, lol
Punna Farm:
Back on the farm!
Nothing like an alley crop system too make a girl's heart happy ♥
(Mangoes, pineapple, and bananas)
(Yes, I'm a nerd. I accepted it a long time ago)
Pineapple! 






Monday, March 27, 2017

Exploring Sukhothai

"Beep. Beep. Beeep." It's 5:30 a.m. and the droning sound of my alarm fills the room. Mel, my travelling companion, and I sleepily roll out of bed and start getting ready for the day. The previous afternoon we had arrived by bus to Sukhothai, a place famed as being the first Siam (the older name for Thailand) capital that was constructed roughly 700 years ago. The site is maintained as a historical park, and was the location we were heading to so early in the morning. 

We pedalled our way to the park grounds on our rented bikes (the best way to explore the expansive park) and made it just before sunrise. Starting with the main attraction Wat Mahathat, we stood in awe of the ancient beauty watching the orange glow of the sun appear while listening to the monks from a near by temple conduct their morning chant. A wave of peace and gratefulness engulfed me in that moment. It still feels like a dream sometimes that I have the fortune to be exploring such a rich and vibrant country. 

Sunrise
There is also something surreal about walking through the remnants of ancient sites and attempting to picture what the surroundings would look like bustling and filled with people. To imagine what life was like back then standing in the same location where others of centuries past have stood, admiring the same gorgeous craftsmanship, regardless of the stages of weathering. 

Bodhi Tree


What is left of the capital is mostly temples with chedis (bell shaped structures that represents Mt. Meru or the center of Buddhist cosmology), pillars once forming ordination and assembly halls, and of course Buddha statues. Hints of Hinduism can also be found in the complex, such as stucco sculptures of Hindu gods and goddesses, as well as the Hindu temple Wat Si Sawai. 

Buddha statue found at Wat Mahathat

Wat Si Sawai: the three pillars representing Brahma, Shiva, and Vishnu
An added bonus to the day was visiting the Ramkhamhaeng National Museum which contained more examples of Sukhothai art, as well as other styles, and more artefacts from the historical park providing a better look at the details of the pieces. 

After grabbing lunch finishing one of the best plates of pad thai I've had, Mel and I loaded onto the bus back to Chiang Mai. While it was a short weekend trip it was one that was filled with vibrant memories. 






Saturday, February 18, 2017

Experiencing Elephants Ethically

One of the reasons I chose to come to Thailand was because of the exotic flora and fauna... including Asian elephants! There are many different elephant parks throughout Thailand, but the one I visited is exceptional. Not only was I able to touch, bathe, and feed the elephants, but I also learned of the stories of how these elephants were rescued from abuse and how the facility takes rehabilitates them. Elephant Nature Park also runs a medical care program that extends to surrounding elephant parks (since care can be expensive) and runs educational programs of how to best train and treat elephants. It is important to know that not all animal facilities ARE NOT the same in quality of treatment of the elephants, and while the price may be a little steeper compared to other facilities, you are paying for the quality of life these elephants have. It is also important to know that because of how elephants' spines are constructed, it is harmful to the animal to ride them, especially in baskets.

As travelers, I believe it is our duty to support tourist attractions that support local communities and environments. If you ever find yourself in Thailand, and want to experience elephants up close, please consider Elephant Nature Park, a leader in ethical treatment and education. Plus, look at all the beauties you can meet! (Did I also mention that it includes an outstanding vegetarian buffet??) 

Get up close and personal!


Still in awe...

Yes, they have baby elephants too! Real life Jungle Book moment



To learn more about Elephant Nature Park, please visit their website:

https://www.elephantnaturepark.org

Wednesday, February 8, 2017

Weekend Shenanigans

For me, Thailand has so far been about embracing and experiencing the opposites that this place exists in - the tranquility and the chaos. There is beauty in both, with me having more comfortability in the first. 

This past weekend is a perfect example. I saw the most breathe taking sites when bamboo rafting and hiking parts of Doi Inthonan. While floating along the river I gazed upon the tall luscious grasses that bordered the river bank, the crooks of the overarching trees, the thick spiraling vines that clung to trees and formed bridges across the gliding water to the other side. My heart was so full of awe and all I could do was state the obvious, "This is beautiful," and laugh. Then as we steered close to some of the grasses, grazing the shore before pushing off the bottom of the river away from the edge (we used long bamboo poles in this manner to steer and move forward). At this moment I felt something on my head. The mysterious object then crawled onto my shirt coming into full view - the biggest spider I have ever seen in person. The spider itself was slightly smaller than the palm of my hand and consisted of a dark brown or black color with an orange marking down its back and had chunky hairy legs. Easy to say, I lost my cool not knowing how to remove the spider without touching it. Luckily, I had two amazing fellow rafters. Abby, the closest one in front of me guided me through where the spider was located on my body (it had moved from my head to my stomach to my butt) and then used my pole to poke it off and then kill it while comically yelling, "Die spider, die!" as I jumped into the river (which I should have done in the first place). Alison, who was steering the from of the raft, stayed calm and had stopped the raft so that I was able to jump into the water. (If either one of you are reading this THANK YOU once again!) I was later informed after describing the spider to a local Thai that the spider was not poisonous, meaning I hadn't been in danger. None the less, it is a moment that will stick with me and if I ever have grandkids, they will definitely be hearing about it!

Doi Inthanon was also filled with incredible beauty and a little bit of fear (a lot less intense than the last story I just shared). The fear was from heights as I descended bamboo ladders and bridges to fully take in the crashing waters of one of the four waterfalls we saw on our hike. Fear also crept up when I eased myself into the waterfall pool and swam around. Even as I type these words I cannot quite believe that I am describing my life - a person that has taken so very few risks. And I think that this is one of the reasons I chose Thailand for studying abroad. I was tired of not taking risks and in many ways putting myself out there. As someone who can be quiet and shy I want to experience life beyond those two fronts. And you know what? It has been the most exhilarating experience. To do things you would never conceive yourself doing. To have wild stories about swimming in waterfall pools and spiders and more. The moments where my heart skips a beat can be frightening yes, but those moments, especially balanced by the peace I feel when I fully take in a waterfall or the view from a peak with fields and villages below are the moments I most cherish. Thailand is both tranquil and chaotic and for me, that's where I feel most alive. 

Swimming in the waterfall pool with Elyse
The amazing view!

More waterfalls



Monday, January 30, 2017

The Beginning

The last couple weeks have been overwhelming in the best way possible. It's hard to believe that three weeks ago I left the U.S. and started this journey. A journey that has already included interacting with Asian elephants, eating amazing food, being blessed by a monk, experiencing life in the country with a homestay, hiking up a mountain to view the city below, and maybe best of all, meeting the incredible people in my program, the people I have had the pleasure sharing these adventures with. It is difficult to know where to start, and since there are all of these wonderful experiences and more to detail and describe, for now I am just going to include some excerpts from my personal journal. Look forward to detailed features on the Elephant Nature Park, cuisine, temple trips, and more, coming soon!

On arriving in Asia:

January 11th

"Here I am. I have made it - I'm currently sitting in China! The first thing I registered after the initial confusion of how airports function, was the mountains and the fog surrounding the airport. It looks and feels surreal. I'm in China. How is that possible?? I feel like I have fallen in love and I've only been confined to an airport for 3 hours and 34 minutes. I feel like this is a place that is foreign and exciting, but I feel like I could be a part of this life. Traveling to Asia, while it appears crazy in my life this far, seems so natural. Part of me is thinking "How did I get here?" and the other part of me is feeling a certain rightness, like this is how it's suppose to be."

On the food:

January 13th

"Fresh local pineapple from the fruit stand down our soi (alley) as part of breakfast"

"Banana flower salad!"

January 14th

"Tea leaf salad is now one of my favorite dishes - of all time."

First full Thai meal (banana flower salad is the far right dish)


On the Elephant Nature Park:

January 13th

"I got to pet 2 of the elephants, one whose name translates to "Good Enough" in Thai. Their skin is 1" thick and has tough/wiry hair. My favorite part was helping to bathe them by throwing buckets of water on them from the river."

Me in under amazement (photo cred: Mae Gruen)



On the homestay:

January 18th

"Highlight: Watching Muay Thai with Pa (the grandfather of the family) - he was cheering for Thailand (in red) and learned that he use to practice. We also witnessed this one fighter do a knee-jump and kneed the other fighter in the jaw!"

January 26th

"The last day in the village was incredible and emotional. They had us do this blessing where we all held on to this long piece of string while a chief from another village read a blessing. In essence it was to help us to "find our way back home" and for a safe journey..." 

With Mae and Pa, dressed for a traditional Thai dance

And that is only the beginning :)